Name:
Location: Whitby, Ontario, Canada

Born in Malta but in Canada since age 5. Has written three books and presently does several columns about wine and food for various magazines.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Day Five: Grand Pre, Blomidon Ridge, Foxhill Cheese

Blomidon Breakfast

Breakfast at the Blomidon Inn was its usual great self, I was full previous night's dining at Tempest PLUS also from a brunch that Greg, Christine and I had filmed at 10 AM at the Inn earlier that day. I still needed to make sure I had some food in me prior to departing for Grand Pre and then Annapolis Royal.

Grand Pre Winery

What can I say about Grand Pre that hasn't been said before? Grande Pre was originally owned and operated by Roger Dial who is well known for his work with Nova Scotia wines. However, the man who brought the winery to the forefront and whose foresight, integrity and wisdom made Grande Pre the example it is today is Hanspeter Stutz.

Swiss born Stutz purchased the winery when he was still in his homeland of Switzerland. In1993 he moved his family to Nova Scotia to build a winery and make wine. He methodically built not only a phenomenal winery with excellent wines but also a winery that was as attractive as it was functional.

When one goes through the vineyards, one sees vines that are in immaculate condition along side some of the most attractive wine buildings and wine restaurant anywhere---not only in Nova Scotia but anywhere else. Hanspeter's philosophy is to work with nature not against it. "You can't trick Nature. If you try, you will undoubtedly fail;" is his motto. He recalls, "I knew one person who felt that one could grow vinifera vines in a region that was a challenge. He planted many acres of vinifera. The first year he had a good crop. The second year he had a great crop. The third year it was excellent. The fourth year he lost all his vines to winterkill!"

What Hanspeter has done is to concentrate on vines that grow well in the area and capitalize on growing the finest grape vines and making the best wine possible. He is very innovative and is consistently trying to improve the grapes and also the quality of fruit wine and apple cider in the area.
As we went further down the vineyard I was shown the new experiment! Stutz has planted a new Marechal Foch/Cabernet Sauvignon hybrid and feels that while the jury is still out, there is a good chance that this variety will eventually be able to make wines of great body and fruit flavours of the Cabernet style. Hanspeter also has come up with a new White Port that is exceptional and his Pomme D'Or and Icewine are among the most sought after wines by fans. Not to be outdone, his daughter Beatrice manages the Le Caveau restaurant that is adjoined to the winery and Chef Jason runs the kitchen. The food is exquisite, it is little wonder that Hanspeter is part of the "slow food" movement and does collaborative work with Chef Michael Howell of the Tempest Restaurant in Wolfville.
Lunch At Le Caveau
"This is my round table", Hanspeter said as he pointed to a very large circular table obvious a complete cross cut of a very large tree. Hanspeter went on to say that he follows the tradition of the round table by inviting people to share it with him to foster discussion and relaxation. Greg and I felt honoured that he invited us and Christine White to join him for lunch. His partner, Anna, also joined us and was a delightful and classy addition to the group.
My lunch consisted of a Smoked Salmon sandwich that was preceded by a Bisque soup. It was matched with a New York Muscat from Grand Pre. It was a great way to end the visit. I enjoy visiting Grand Pre for many reasons. Hanspeter first and above all inspires me and re-energizes my enthusiasm for wine. He also always comes up with a new project or two that he is working on and peaks my curiosity. His showpiece of a winery is among the best anywhere and along with the winemakers of Nova Scotia, his passion is infectious. The great food at Le Caveau doesn't hurt either.
Blomidon Ridge
Blomidon Ridge is called the "Tidal Winery" because it is so close to the tidal estuary. Closeness to the tides influences the temperature and air movement thus influencing the growth and development of the vines. Many great wines from white to rose to red are produced especialy one magnificent 2007 Baco Noir (if you can get some that is) which has a great deal of integrity and is full of ripe red and black fruit. The vines are looking good and should look even better next year!
A Visit To Foxhill Cheese House
On the way to Annapolis Royal is the Foxhill Cheese House whose motto is" From Seed! To Grass! To Milk! To Cheese To You!" Jeanita Rand has a unique history. Her direct ancestors were expelled from the Port William area in the the 17th Century. Her husband emigrated from England and landed in the United States years ago. He moved north and eventually settled in the Foxhill area with his parents. He met Jeanita and eventually married her settling down on the Foxhill property which was the very same property that was taken from her ancestors so many years ago. What goes around doe indeed come around!
A member of the quality milk program, the Rands have a herd of 50 cattle which produce all the needs of the many cheeses, milk and gelato (an Italian ice cream). The process is very strict and the animals are very well taken care of. Greg and I did a shoot there and were not permitted into the cheese area until we wore gowns, booths and hairnets. I'm bald but still needed a hairnet!
Being a member of the Taste of Nova Scotia movement does indeed have its benefits which I think also benefit the Taste of Nova Scotia.
Next: Annapolis Royal and Hillsdale House